The Worst Advice We've Ever Heard About Maintaining Trees
Plant a tree, give it some water and leave it alone. Trees look after themselves, don't they?
Or perhaps you've been told the complete opposite:
"You need to cut it right back every year to keep it healthy."
Both are examples of the kind of tree maintenance advice that can cause more problems than it solves.
At Clyne Trees & Gardens in Kirkcaldy, we work with trees and gardens throughout Fife. Over the years, we've heard plenty of well-intentioned advice about looking after trees that isn't necessarily good advice at all.
Trees are living plants, and different species have different requirements. Their age, condition, location and the time of year can all influence what should – and shouldn't – be done.
So let's look at some of the worst advice you might hear about maintaining a garden tree and what we would recommend instead.
Bad Advice No.1: "Just Cut the Top Off If the Tree Gets Too Big"
It sounds logical.
The tree is getting too tall, so simply chop the top off.
Unfortunately, indiscriminately cutting large sections from the top of a tree isn't the same thing as properly pruning it.
Heavy-handed pruning can spoil the natural structure of a tree and stimulate vigorous new growth. Rather than solving the problem permanently, you can potentially create a tree that requires even more attention in the future.
Our advice
If a tree has become too large for its surroundings, first establish why it needs to be reduced and what type of tree it is.
Professional pruning should work with the tree's natural shape and structure.
Sometimes selective crown reduction, thinning or the removal of particular branches may achieve the required result without unnecessarily removing large amounts of healthy growth.
Better still, avoid the problem from the beginning by choosing a tree whose eventual height and spread are appropriate for the garden.
Bad Advice No.2: "Trees Should Be Pruned Every Year"
Not necessarily.
There is no universal rule saying that every tree needs an annual haircut.
In fact, once established, many ornamental garden trees require relatively little routine pruning.
Unnecessary pruning can create wounds, alter the tree's natural shape and, when done badly, cause problems that weren't there before.
Our advice
Have a reason for pruning.
Good reasons could include removing:
- Dead branches
- Damaged branches
- Diseased growth
- Crossing or rubbing branches
- Unsafe growth
- Branches causing a genuine obstruction
- Growth that is creating problems for nearby structures
Young trees can also benefit from careful formative pruning to help establish a strong, well-spaced framework while they develop.
The objective shouldn't be "it's another year, so it's time to prune the tree."
It should be:
"Does this tree actually need anything done to it?"
Bad Advice No.3: "Winter Is the Best Time to Prune Every Tree"
This is one of those pieces of advice that contains just enough truth to sound convincing.
Many deciduous trees can indeed be pruned while dormant during winter. With the leaves gone, it can also be easier to see the tree's branch structure.
But that doesn't mean winter is the correct pruning season for every species.
For example, cherry and plum trees are generally better pruned during the warmer months because this can reduce their susceptibility to diseases such as silver leaf.
Birch is another example where timing matters because pruning at the wrong point in the year can result in significant sap bleeding.
Our advice
Identify the tree before deciding when to prune it.
The correct question isn't simply:
"When should I prune my tree?"
It is:
"When should I prune this particular species of tree?"
That small difference can be extremely important.
Bad Advice No.4: "The More You Cut Off, the Better It Will Grow Back"
Trees don't necessarily respond to severe pruning in the way people expect.
Removing too much of the canopy at once can place unnecessary stress on the tree and may stimulate vigorous upright shoots.
If the original objective was to create a smaller, attractive and more manageable tree, aggressive pruning can therefore achieve precisely the opposite.
Our advice
Tree pruning should usually be selective rather than excessive.
Look at the tree as a whole before making the first cut.
Which branches actually need to come off?
What will the tree look like afterwards?
How much of the canopy are you removing?
Could the same objective be achieved by removing fewer branches?
Good tree maintenance is as much about knowing what to leave alone as knowing what to remove.
Bad Advice No.5: "A Newly Planted Tree Gets Plenty of Rain in Fife – It Doesn't Need Watering"
Anyone living in Kirkcaldy or elsewhere in Fife might understandably think this one sounds reasonable.
Scotland certainly isn't famous for drought.
But rainfall doesn't automatically mean enough moisture is reaching the root system of a newly planted tree.
Periods of dry and windy weather can dry soil surprisingly quickly, and young trees haven't yet developed the extensive root systems of established specimens.
Our advice
Pay particular attention to watering during the tree's first couple of years.
Rather than repeatedly sprinkling a little water onto the surface, water thoroughly so moisture penetrates down towards the developing roots.
Check the soil rather than simply looking at the weather forecast.
Even after rainfall, locations close to walls, buildings or beneath existing tree canopies can remain surprisingly dry.
Bad Advice No.6: "Give a New Tree Plenty of Fertiliser to Help It Get Started"
More food must mean faster growth?
Not necessarily.
A newly planted tree's immediate priority is establishing a healthy root system in its new surroundings.
Throwing lots of fertiliser into the planting area isn't automatically beneficial and isn't normally necessary when planting into reasonable garden soil.
Our advice
Concentrate first on getting the fundamentals right:
Correct planting depth.
Suitable soil.
Good drainage.
Adequate water.
Sufficient space.
And the right tree for the location.
You can address feeding later if soil conditions or the tree's development suggest that it is necessary.
Bad Advice No.7: "Pile Mulch Right Up Around the Trunk"
Mulching can be extremely beneficial for trees.
It can help the ground retain moisture, suppress weeds and improve soil conditions as organic material breaks down.
But mulch shouldn't be piled against the trunk.
You sometimes see what looks like a small volcano of bark surrounding a young tree, with mulch rising several inches up its trunk.
It might look tidy, but constantly holding moisture against the bark can encourage deterioration and disease.
Our advice
Spread organic mulch over the root area while leaving a clear gap immediately around the trunk.
Think doughnut rather than volcano.
The objective is to improve the soil surrounding the roots, not bury the bottom of the tree.
Bad Advice No.8: "Leave the Stake and Tie There – The Tree Needs the Support"
A newly planted tree may need staking while its roots become established, particularly in an exposed Fife garden.
But the stake isn't supposed to become a permanent part of the tree.
As the trunk expands, a forgotten tree tie can become tight enough to damage it.
Leaving unnecessary support in place can also prevent the tree from developing naturally.
Our advice
Check tree ties regularly, particularly during spring and autumn.
Make sure they aren't rubbing against or constricting the trunk.
Once the root system has established sufficiently to support the tree, the stake should be removed rather than forgotten about.
Bad Advice No.9: "That Branch Looks Easy Enough – I'll Get the Ladder Out"
This is where questionable tree advice can become dangerous.
Removing a small branch from a young tree at ground level is one thing.
Working several metres above ground with ladders, saws or powered equipment is something completely different.
Tree branches can also be considerably heavier than they appear. Once a cut is made, you need to know where that weight is going.
Our advice
Know when a tree-maintenance job has moved beyond sensible DIY gardening.
Height, large branches, restricted working areas, buildings, conservatories, greenhouses, roads, neighbouring property and overhead services can all dramatically increase the risk.
If you're looking at the tree wondering whether you can safely reach that branch, it may be time to call someone who can assess and carry out the work properly.
Bad Advice No.10: "If the Tree Looks Healthy, There's Nothing to Worry About"
Trees don't always make problems obvious.
Deadwood can remain within an otherwise healthy-looking canopy. Branches can rub against one another, weak unions can develop and fungal growth or decay can sometimes appear around the trunk or roots.
After the strong winds and winter weather we can experience across Fife, it makes sense to occasionally take a proper look at larger garden trees.
Our advice
You don't need to become obsessed with your trees, but don't completely ignore them either.
Every so often, stand back and look at the whole tree.
Has its shape changed?
Are there dead branches?
Have branches started rubbing?
Is there damage following high winds?
Are there cracks, cavities or unusual growths?
Are branches getting too close to the house, garage, roof or overhead cables?
Has the tree started leaning?
Early attention to a developing problem can be considerably easier than dealing with it several years later.
What Is the Best Advice for Maintaining a Tree?
Perhaps the best tree-maintenance advice is also the simplest:
Understand what you've got before deciding what to do with it.
Find out what species the tree is.
Consider its age and condition.
Understand how large it is expected to become.
Look at where it is growing.
Consider nearby buildings and other obstacles.
Know when that particular species should be pruned.
And most importantly, don't prune a healthy tree simply because somebody has told you that trees "need cutting back".
Sometimes the best maintenance decision is to leave the tree alone.
Other times, a small amount of carefully planned work today can prevent a much bigger problem developing later.
Looking After Trees Through Fife's Four Seasons
Living in Fife means our trees experience everything from winter frost and strong winds to spring growth, summer dry spells and autumn storms.
Tree maintenance should reflect those changing conditions.
Spring is a useful time to inspect trees following winter, check stakes and ties on younger specimens and look for new growth.
Summer is when newly planted trees may need particular attention to watering during dry periods. It can also be the appropriate pruning season for certain species.
Autumn provides another opportunity to inspect trees before winter and check that young trees are adequately supported ahead of stronger winds.
Winter can be suitable for pruning many dormant deciduous trees, but remember – not every species should be treated the same way.
A little attention at the appropriate time is usually better than drastic action after a tree has been neglected for years.
Need Advice About Your Trees in Kirkcaldy or Fife?
There is no shortage of tree-care advice online, from neighbours or from someone who once cut a branch off a tree and therefore considers themselves an expert.
The difficulty is knowing which advice actually applies to your tree.
At Clyne Trees & Gardens, we believe good tree maintenance starts by looking at the tree, its condition and its surroundings before recommending what work – if any – should be carried out.
We provide professional tree and garden services throughout Kirkcaldy and Fife, helping homeowners look after established trees as well as planning and maintaining new additions to their gardens.
If you have a tree that has become too large, needs pruning, has suffered storm damage or you're simply unsure about its condition, speak to Clyne Trees & Gardens before reaching for the saw.
Good tree care isn't about cutting more. It's about knowing when, where and whether to cut at all.
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